Just behind our apartment is a gorgeous “hotel particulier” (private mansion) which is home to a two-star restaurant called Apicius. Because it is on our dog-walking route, we have gone by it a hundred times, each time gazing into the gravel driveway and wondering what went on in such a lovely place. Fancy cars regularly squeezed into its narrow drive, and the courtyard glittered with white lights and candles. And I loved the orange lettered sign on the beautiful old stone wall.
On my most recent visit to Paris, we decided to find out what this fancy-shmancy place was all about, and end my week with a blow-out dinner at this restaurant in our own backyard.
We can see the lights on this tree from our apartment window!
I did a little research on the lovely 19th century mansion and discovered that it once belonged to the Compte Artois, who was the brother of Louis XVI, a favorite of Marie-Antoinette, and was eventually King Charles X of France. Good to know I walked my dog by a royal residence on a daily basis. So glad he never popped a squat there. Or worse.
The dining room where we sat was lovely, and even had a painting on the wall that adorns the cover of one of our old family travel journals, making us feel instantly at home.
The food was very fancy, with lots of the foam that seems to be making the rounds at high-end restaurants. Sadly, I have forgotten what we ordered, but you can admire the plates. And the foam.
This one I remember- sweetbreads. I ordered it because the waiter said it was a specialty of the house. It was delicious, but still- you know-squishy.
The dish that will linger longest in our memories was the chocolate soufflé. I am not even a chocolate fan, and I could have licked the dish clean, if Mark had let me. Amazing.
That dinner probably ranks with the most expensive meals we have eaten in Paris, but it was a wonderful experience. And everyone needs a little neighborhood restaurant that they can pop into for a quick bite, right? Or maybe just a chocolate soufflé in the bar (please, please, please)?
I found this short video of the chef, Jean-Pierre Vigato, in the kitchen, and a few shots of the beautiful restaurant. Enjoy!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yFY4_Yw9yu0
20, Rue d’Artois
Paris, 75008
Mais Oui Paris 
I love your approach to food. ” Sadly, I have forgotten what we ordered, but you can admire the plates. And the foam.”… LOL! a woman after my pown heart!!
Love Denise
I am ready to hop a plane! Have passport, will travel. When do you return to Houston? Please, let me take you to lunch and you can regale me with adventures. Henri
Only 2 stars and the most expensive meal you’ve had? I must not understand the rating system…..
Wow!!!! So pretty. That’s my kind of evening…fine cuisine and a historic mansion. Brilliant.
That’s the location of the royal gardens that supplied all flowers, shrubs, trees, etc. to the gardens at Versailles and the Tuileries…really any garden Le Notre created. In 1781, Artois had a grand stable built there (les ecuries du roi). They were later razed to have the current hotel (1860s) to be built by marquis Talhouet.
glad you enjoyed the sweetbreads, but they are not brains, they come from the thymus, which is a gland in the throat (although sometimes other glands are used too)
Ah, Brigitte, you are right! I used to know that but somehow they became brains in my own brain! Maybe because of their appearance? Thanks for the correction!