Category Archives: Musee Carnavalet

Paris With The Ladies

It’s hard to believe that I have been running around Paris with my mom and my aunt for almost two weeks and haven’t posted a single word or photo. Clearly, I can be Blogger or Tour Guide but not simultaneously.

The September weather has been perfect for sight seeing- hardly a drop of rain the whole month. I know The Ladies have walked more than they thought they could, each day encouraged by the “10,000 steps” signal of my Fit Bit. We have taken a cab only once, and the rest of the time have been on foot or on metro (which usually involves a lot of stairs).  No one has stepped out in front of a bicycle or a bus or even stumbled over the frequent obstacles on sidewalks and footpaths. My goal was to fly them home in a vertical position, and with one more day to go, we are almost there. Hip hip (no broken ones) !!

On their first full day we ventured to the Marais, where we ate falafel and enjoyed the photography exhibit of Occupied Paris at the Musee Carnavelet.

The Musee Carnavelet

The Musee Carnavelet

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Another day we visited the Camondo museum, which I have posted about many times. I wish they had a Frequent Flyer program there, because I would definitely have earned some drink tickets. Even though I can quote the audio guide by heart, I never tire of being in that beautiful house with the sad history.

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on the way there- looking toward Parc Monceau

gate at the park

gate at the park

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I will be heading back to Texas on Wednesday, assuming that Air France has ended its longest pilots’ strike ever. That’s why we call it Air Chance!

Stay tuned for more Paris With The Ladies. But be patient. I am working at a slow pace here.

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Filed under art, Marais, Musee Carnavalet, Musee de Nissim de Camondo, Parc Monceau, Paris, Paris museum, Uncategorized

Paris In The Rain Is Still Paris

The week of “la rentrée” in Paris continues to be (mostly) rainy and grey, but still a lovely temperature. Although the full-time Parisians tire of the drizzle, this girl from the Land Where It Rarely Rains still loves it. Yesterday I went out for a walk, fully expecting the rain to fall while I was out. Which it did. Paris is still charming in the rain, particularly when there is no cold wind to turn one’s umbrella inside-out.

Monday was the 70th anniversary of the liberation of Paris, and I have really enjoyed learning about that time in this city. In July I went to a wonderful exhibit at the Musée de Carnavalet entitled “Paris Freed, Paris Photographed, Paris Exhibited”. This extensive exhibit gathered photographs, interviews, films, and other documentation of the Resistance and the Liberation. Unfortunately, it was hot in the museum and I was not able to linger as long as I would have liked. However, Tuesday morning I was planning a morning walk around Notre Dame when I remembered that there was another exhibit about the liberation at the Hotel De Ville. I was there early enough to avoid a line, and the building was blessedly cool. The photographs of Paris during its Occupation by the Germans, and of the Parisians who bravely resisted during the weeks preceding the day of liberation, were so moving. There were also many priceless film clips of the time playing on one wall. Just the previous night I had watched on television a two-hour compilation of old film and recent interviews with people who participated in the resistance and the liberation. It was fascinating, despite my lack of understanding of much of what was said. The film clips at the Hotel de Ville were the same ones I had seen in that show, some of which had been explained in the exhibit. I was really happy to have seen the show and to have visited the exhibit on a quiet, cool morning.

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After the exhibit I walked toward the river.

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The rain began to fall just as I got to Notre Dame.

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This long line of tourists were in line for the guided tours up into the bell towers of the church, something I have never done.

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The little park next to Notre Dame was fully in bloom.

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This poor little bridge is one of the many victims of the “love lock” mania that is defacing and damaging bridges all over the city. A movement has started to stop the locks, but it’s difficult to fight the will of tourists from all over the world who think it’s “de rigueur” to commemorate their love with a lock on a bridge. Please, if you visit, celebrate your love with a kiss or a grope or a bottle of wine on a bridge- anything but a lock!

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ick

ick

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The sun appeared in my apartment windows later that afternoon, so I walked off to the park with my book, sunglasses, and no umbrella. Of course that meant that after thirty minutes the rain returned, causing me to cut my park visit short. Then, when I was almost home, the sun reappeared. I stopped at Starbucks and snapped up a chair in the sun while I could. Paris weather is nothing if not fickle.

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view from Starbucks

I leave you with these two Metro cuties.

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Over and out.

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Filed under gardens, Musee Carnavalet, Notre Dame, Paris

What we did besides eat and drink

My sweet friend is now in the good hands of Continental Airlines, following the arching arrow on the airplane screen as it slowly, slowly creeps  toward Houston.  I know they won’t feed her as well as Paris did, but that’s OK, because she is probably still full from  the eating marathon we enjoyed together.  But enough about the food.  I promised a re-cap of the things we did that did not require a fork or a glass.  SO.

First we went to the Musee de Luxembourg, a small museum in the Luxembourg Gardens which is hosting a wonderful exhibit entitled “Cezanne in Paris”.  We both love Cezanne, and this was a delightfully intimate display of his work, with no crowds.

The next day we hit the Musee de Cluny, which is the National Museum of the Middle Ages.  The building is gorgeous, and the grounds include some wonderful Gallo-roman thermal baths built around the first century.  The museum is home to an impressive collection of  Medieval tapestries, sculptures, paintings, jewelry, and stained glass windows from the 5th to the 15th centuries.

Despite the freezing cold that gripped the city, we walked all over it.

We looked down.

We looked up.

We looked ahead.

We looked at guys with funny hair.

We looked at Impressionist art at the Musee d’Orsay. I sneaked a photo in the museum this time, because occasional civil disobedience is good for the soul.

We went to the Musee Carnavalet and revisited the exhibit on 19th century Parisians.  We went to Shakespeare and Co. and bought some books.  My friend engaged in a bit of civil disobedience herself, as the new store policy forbids photographs, and she snapped a few like this one.  We just can’t help ourselves.  We’re kind of Thelma and Louise-ish.  Scoff-laws.  Dangerous.  That’s us.

Our last day together we had lunch at the  Le Jules Verne, which is on the second platform of the Eiffel Tower.  Dining at the “JV” is a memorable event indeed.  The staff fell over themselves to anticipate our every need (including how to open the door of the very “space-age” bathroom) and made us feel like royalty.  The food was delicious, and the view spectacular.

The sun lit more and more of the horizon as we dined.

It looks like we're smiling but we're actually grimacing from the cold.

We fully intended for that three-hour lunch to be the final meal of our feeding frenzy.  However, as we walked around that afternoon, trying desperately to recover feeling in our hands and feet, I got a text from Mlle. Cordon-Bleu that there was left-over puff pastry dough in our fridge.  As in “made that day at the Cordon-Bleu” puff pastry dough.  We immediately began plotting what evil we could do with that dough, and decided on Barefoot Contessa’s goat cheese and tomato tart.  Two quick stops at the cheese shop and the produce store, and we were ready to make this little baby!

Thanks, Ina.

And that, my friends, was the final meal.  And it was delicious.

I think that about covers our six short days loving Paris together.   Mark returns tomorrow and is whisking me off on a surprise weekend to celebrate my looming birthday.  Maybe London?  I will let you know.

Bon weekend, wherever you go!

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Filed under cooking, Eiffel Tower, Musee Carnavalet, Paris dining, Paris museum, Uncategorized