Tag Archives: Les Papilles

Les Papilles and Lazare- Two Good Meals In Paris

The restaurant selection in Paris can be mind-boggling. I often think to myself, as I walk by places that I would like to try, that I could eat out twice a day for the next ten years and not come close to hitting all of them. We do make an effort to try new places, but sometimes it’s nice to go back to the “tried and true”.

Several weeks ago, after out field trip to Bercy, Mark and I popped by Lazare in hopes of getting lunch without a reservation. Located in the St. Lazare train station, Lazare is a spacious and light-filled restaurant with a three-star chef, Eric Frechon. We had eaten dinner there once before but did not know whether we could get in for lunch, or even if they would be open for lunch. They were, and we did, and it was lovely. Sunday lunch is a set menu and that day it was smoked salmon and leeks vinaigrette for starters, a beef dish similar to pot roast with potatoes, and cherry clafoutis and tart tatin for dessert.




From my seat I had a bird’s-eye view into the open kitchen.







I have read complaints about the service at Lazare, and ours wasn’t terrible but wasn’t great. The worst of it was being given a bill, which we paid before realizing it was for the diners sitting to the right of us. The staff brought us the difference in cash and were apologetic, but the mistake was symptomatic of the disorganized service that afternoon. We went home full and happy, though, and pleased with ourselves for a delicious and spontaneous choice for lunch.

That same week we took Martha and her friends to our old stand-by, Les Papilles, which I have written about here more than once. The last time we were there was in the summer and we nearly disappeared under our table in a puddle of sweat. This evening, though, was cold, and we sat at our favorite round table by the window, which we opened a few times for a cool down.


As always at Les Papilles, the fixed menu was an amazing soup, a roasted meat and vegetable, and a frozen panna cotta. The first two courses are served family style.

the best part of the soup are the crunchies that arrive in the bowl

the best part of the soup are the crunchies that arrive in the bowl




pork and veggies


parmesan polenta

parmesan polenta


Sad to say the panna cotta didn’t stick around long enough for a photo. It was covered in toasted pistachios, and was delicious, as always.


Les Papilles is always relaxed and fun and the food is consistently good. Just don’t go there in the summer. Ever. Even a cold soup didn’t save us.






Filed under Paris, Paris dining

A Great Paris Restaurant

Could it really be the first of August? How did that happen? C’est incroyable! That means that tomorrow I fly back to Texas for two weeks to tend to family business, hug my dog, and eat some enchiladas. That’s the good part. The bad part is that it will be August in Texas, too, which is not known to be Texas’ best event. But it’s only two weeks, so I’m not complaining (yet).

One evening recently, when two of our kids were here, we went out for a drink and then to dinner. We chose to have our drink at a sidewalk cafe close to the restaurant. It happened to be facing the Jardin du Luxembourg, which was so pretty I had to whip out my camera and take some pics. IMG_4356   IMG_4359 IMG_4360 IMG_4361


If their smiles look forced, it’s because through their teeth they are saying “mom, we really hate it when you take our pictures in cafes”.

Before my son arrived in Paris, he requested that we eat at one of our old favorite restaurants, Les Papilles. We discovered this place early in our Paris adventure and it quickly became a “go-to” place when we had out-of-town guests. In fact, we went so frequently that we got tired of it, and hadn’t been back in a year or so. It was just as charming as we remembered it, if not a bit warmer, as it was a balmy July evening and there wasn’t a lot of air circulating in there. Les Papilles offers a set menu at dinner, which is always a soup, a main, a cheese plate, and a dessert. Sadly for Mark, the main has been lamb the last few times we have been there, one of the very few foods he detests. The restaurant kindly offered him a fish substitute, for which he was most grateful. IMG_4371 IMG_4378 The restaurant is also a wine bar and part of the fun of eating there is picking a bottle off of the wall. IMG_4379

We loved watching this father and son duo.

We loved watching this father and son duo.

our favorite round table in a back alcove

our favorite round table in a back alcove

IMG_4376 Some of the best soups we have ever eaten have been served to us at Les Papilles. They always bring out the bowls full of “add-ins” and then a big tureen of soup. This one was a cold (mercifully) tomato soup. IMG_4381 IMG_4384 IMG_4385


the lamb and veggies

frozen panne cotte with fruit- always amazing

frozen panne cotte with fruit- always amazing

The next time you visit Paris, make a reservation at this charming little bistro. I think you will love it.

Les Papilles 30 rue Gay-Lussac 75005


Filed under Luxembourg Gardens, Paris, Paris dining